"CalzoneGolem" (calzonegolem)
09/10/2019 at 10:26 • Filed to: Forest
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"CalzoneGolem" (calzonegolem)
09/10/2019 at 10:26 • Filed to: Forest | 0
| 16 |
I changed my rear wheel cylinders, shoes and drums on Sunday and I can’t get my brakes to stop being squishy. Backs seem to work but front will still spin with brakes depressed. I’ve bled each wheel a dozen times. What am I doing wrong Oppo?
E90M3
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 10:32 |
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How old is your fluid?
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CalzoneGolem
> E90M3
09/10/2019 at 10:38 |
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It’s been mostly replaced by now it keeps coming out clearer and clearer.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 10:47 |
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Have you re-bleed the rears again? If there is still air in the rear lines that will compress before activating the front brakes. Also perhaps a bad portioning valve if there is such a thing on your car for front rear bias.
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E90M3
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 10:52 |
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If the old fluid had been in there awhile it’s probably time for a good flush as brake fluid is very hydrophilic .
dogisbadob
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 10:54 |
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speed bleeders are awesome :o)
Michael
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 10:56 |
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Are you bleeding the brakes with the car relatively level, or are you super nose- or tail-high?
ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:00 |
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If you’re having trouble, sometimes after component replacements like calipers and wheel cylinders, it can be useful to gravity bleed the system before proceeding with the usual pressure bleed.
Open the master cylinder cap, open bleeders on each corner and let gravity do it’s thing (while keeping the master cylinder fed with fluid. Then close off the bleeders and proceed with a normal bleed.
Depending on the car, if you let the master cylinder run dry in the process of changing the wheel cylinders, you may need to bleed the master cylinder and/or ABS accumulator. The latter may or may not require a higher level scan tool to bleed correctly.
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CalzoneGolem
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
09/10/2019 at 11:09 |
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I’ve bled them a bunch.
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CalzoneGolem
> Michael
09/10/2019 at 11:10 |
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Relatively level
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CalzoneGolem
> ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
09/10/2019 at 11:10 |
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How do you bleed the master?
Urambo Tauro
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:11 |
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What kind of vehicle was this again? Does it have ABS, and is there any chance air got into it, requiring a special bleeding procedure to cycle the valves?
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CalzoneGolem
> Urambo Tauro
09/10/2019 at 11:12 |
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2008 Forester sport. It is possible air got into the abs
MoCamino
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:13 |
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Do you have a proportioning valve? On my car there is a button on the prop valve that has to be held in while bleeding the rears. I ended up holding it down with a zip tie while bleeding the rears. Made things a lot easier.
merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:16 |
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Motive power bleeder? That should bleed the master, and ABS system if applicable as well.
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Urambo Tauro
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:20 |
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Oh, and you m ight also want to have an assistant (or camera) watch t he rubber hoses for swelling while you work the brake pedal.
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ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
> CalzoneGolem
09/10/2019 at 11:29 |
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Ideally you bench bleed them (although the same process works on the car via the brake pedal). Sometimes you can get lucky and get a good bleed via cracking open the flare fitting at the master cylinder (with a rag around the fitting) while the pedal is pushed.